This is politically incorrect!
From Kariba in Zim we crossed into Zambia and this was the first time that we noticed a scam at a bordercrossing. The target were South Africans.
Apparently Saffers need a statement from their police that they are
the rightful owner of their car (SAPC document?). Men in civilan clothes
claim that they are policemen and the first thing they ask for is this
document. Nothing else is checked. We could easily point out that a
South African document is something one does not have for a European
registered car….
The second time we had a problem at the border we actually paid some
greasing money. To enter Malawi a visum is given at the border for free
to Dutch passport-holders but Swiss nationals have to buy one in advance
at one of the Malawian embassies. We thought this could be bought at
the border as well. After long discussions and money changing hands we
got a permit for Agnes to travel three days in Malawi without visum,
this would give enough time to get one at the Immigration office in the
capital Lilongwe. If we could go back into Zambia we would have done so
(and then go into Mozambique) but there we already had our exit stamps
and buying a new visum for USD 50 each was too much (plus USD carbon tax
for our car!).
We met one person back in South Africa who claimed not to go into Zambia again because of the high entry fee. We now understand him better. For 30 days one has to pay in addition to the visa and carbon tax USD 30 for insurance. At several places a so-called council levy is asked for at road-blocks by the police. This ranges from USD 2 to USD 50. National Park entrance (2persons+car) is USD 90 per day! Taking the bad infrastructure of Zambia into consideration as well, it is no wonder that this country gets a lot less tourists than Botswana, Namibia or South Africa. That said, South Luangwa NP is world-class. For me it falls into the same category as Moremi, Chobe, Hwange and Mana Pools.
Malawi is a pet-country for development workers I think. All Toyota and Nissan 4×4′s are marked by some agency (Unicef, National Aids Commision, Worldvision etc.). In the country we also met many volunteers or students out of Europe and the US. For these people a stay in Malawi is great. The people are very friendly and it is safe. Lake Malawi is beautiful to visit and Malawi also has lots of opportunities for hikers.
Aids has taken its toll here as well. There are many orphanages.
The population seems to be very young too (one hardly sees older people)
and growing despite aids. Overpopulation is going to be an even greater
problem if it continues. Cooking is done on fires and trees are
disappearing fast. We were told by a Lodge owner that Lake Malawi is
getting more empty with fish (he discontinued fisher-competitions five
years ago because it was getting too difficult to get a decent catch).
We have seen signs of poaching in Liwonde NP ourselves and according to
our guidebook this is the Park where this problem is smallest!
Although the country must make some money (the president and
ministers drive Mercedes E320′s) it looks a lot poorer than the other
countries we have seen sofar. Over 40 years foreign aid has brought
nothing in my opinion. Possibly better health care only added to the
problem of overpopulation. Industry is completely absent (apart from the
foreign aid industry). Along the roads you can always see busy people,
they are selling or carrying wood, charcoal, tomatoes, onions, fish and
baskets.
In South Africa the wealthier people told us that they like to have
Malawians as gardener or domestic help. Malawians want to go abroad as
well…
In Blantyre we were interviewed by a student in tourism about our
reasons and expectations going to Malawi. When we complained about
something his reaction was: Government has to take care of… He did not
see the opportunity as an entrepeneur. When asked what he wanted to do
after graduation was typical: work for the Ministry of Tourism.
Only whites and Indians are running businesses it seems.
It is a pity that this continues to be a failed country, the people are friendly and funny and the country still has enough nature to enjoy. And the Chinese have not moved in yet.
All in all… it is great to travel here! Go!
